Surfing is a worldwide sport that serves as a passion and way of life for millions. Technology continues to redefine the limits of this ancient sport, as people surf waves that were once seen “impossible” to ride.  With growing numbers of surfers, riding diversified boards, in a variety of conditions, the approach to wave riding continues to evolve.

Humans learn through lessons of the past. Having the ability to learn and establish new ways of approaching things is fundamental to our existence. It inspires new thoughts and ignites the artist within. Each turning point throughout surfing’s evolution is unique, serving as a puzzle piece in the grand scheme of what modern surfing is today.

Polynesian fishing cultures first experienced wave riding while in route between islands almost three thousand years ago. One day, the wooden boat magically clung to the ocean’s swell, as the wave’s energy glided beneath. At this moment, the passion and pleasure for wave riding was discovered.  Islanders observed how different shapes of wood glided on the ocean’s swells as craftsman experimented accordingly. Eventually, Islander’s discovered they could reduce the amount of wood being used in these wave-riding tools, without effecting performance. This eventually led to “planks”, resembling the shape of modern-day boards.

The exact date of when surfing emerged as a sport is unknown. However, ancient Hawaiians left evidence of their sport through hieroglyphs of surfers carved into lava-rock. These carvings date back to 1500 A.D. Polynesian cultures eventually made their way to the Hawaiian Islands. These men and women brought with them a deep love and respect for the ocean, depending on it for their source of life.  Surfing became deeply rooted in ancient Hawaiian tradition as the culture lived, breathed, and cherished the bountiful resources of the ocean. Skilled surfers around this time were often upper class, including chiefs, warriors, and kings. Through maintaining finesse in the ocean’s powerful dynamic environment, surfer’s gained respect and were ranked accordingly throughout their society. Surfing in Hawaii continued to shape and develop over the next couple centuries, as it remained ingrained in the culture.

Captain Cook’s crew recorded written documentation of surfing while exploring Tahiti and Hawaii in the late 1700’s. By this time the Hawaiians had already developed the sport of surfing with nearly two centuries of experience. Hawaiians experimented with different board shapes and sizes, while they sought new tools and methods for the shaping process. The three main boards used by ancient Hawaiians included the following:

•    The Paipo or Kioe, used as a body board, 2-4 feet; usually by children
•    The Alaia (ah-LAI-ah), mid-sized board usually 7-9 feet
•    The Olo (O-lo), longer surfboard: usually used by royalty. 18-22 feet

Ancient Hawaiians continued surfing until changes in the belief system emerged and missionaries from New England settled in the mid 1800’s.  By 1890, surfing in Hawaii was close to extinction, as well as many old Hawaiian traditions and customs. The ancient roots of surfing had been firmly established by this point, despite the sport’s dwindling presence. The United States annexed Hawaii in 1898 which would mark the beginning of a revolution for surfing.

Over the course of the twentieth century, surfing developed further, erupting into a billion dollar industry. New approaches by surfers, shapers, waterman, and physicists alike have lead to key discoveries in form and function, changing the nature of surfing itself. Surf board design has evolved, devolved, emerged, reemerged, and has continued to take on shapes as various as the waves themselves over time.

History is important and should be passed down over generations. The Surfing Heritage Foundation is a non-profit organization based out of California that started in 2001. The Foundation is dedicated to preserving and promoting surfing’s heritage for the appreciation and education of current and future generations.

More on surfing’s evolution through the 19th century to come!

This time of year always brings so many things. It brings a chill in the air which makes us appreciate summer. It brings out the hot chocolate and cider that was hiding in the back cupboard. Most importantly, however, it brings donations out of wallets and highlights the extraordinary generosity of our staff.

For the second year in a row, WB Surf Camp adopted a family through the Cape Fear Community College Holiday Helpers program. While our staff was truly selfless in their giving, we were inspired by the recipient.  She is a student at CFCC with aspirations of opening her own catering company. When an unfortunate situation left her friend unable to care for her two young sons, this selfless woman was compelled to action, taking the boys in and supporting them on her part-time salary.

Her story compelled our staff into action, too. Support began to flow into our office from all corners. New clothing arrived in the mail. Summer instructors dropped in to donate money. Bikes were wheeled through our doors. Toys tumbled out of boxes. A new Leapfrog Learning system was purchased. Instructor Jen Young’s high school class even donated money, wishing they could have given more.

We were so impressed with this outpouring of assistance and are thankful that we have such an incredible staff and community.  We hope that our Holiday Helper Family has a wonderful Christmas, and we look forward to seeing what the New Year brings.

 Part of the luxury of being a professional surfer and surf instructor is getting to go to amazing places, surf beautiful clear waters, and meet amazing people. I don’t lose sight of the fact that I am blessed by that. But often times, on a budget, and in order to make it work, you make small sacrifices and spend a small chunk of your time preparing and planning for the unseen. You assess the potential of each day and humbly depend on others for rides, among other things. So in my daypack I have a stash of dry goods, my pirate water bottle, a book, laptop, camera, wallet, phone, and surfboard. Oh yeah, and Scrat (the saber toothed squirrel from Ice Age to remind me of home and my beautiful incredible wife patiently waiting for me to return). At my home base I keep my extra clothes, boards, more books, power chargers, and camping pad in my board bag because I’m never quite sure where I’m going to be sleeping. And just like any surf trip sometimes it’s flat and you end up on the floor and sometimes you score and end up getting Mick Fanning’s (Current World Camp) room.      

Shredding

 You see, the plan was to stay at this plush condo down in Rincon with some good friends from back home. They weren’t here when we (me and Brad Williams, the local Rip Curl rep) arrived, and so Rip Curl provided us a hotel room for our stay 15 minutes from the contest site and walking distance from another fun break. So I got a bed the first night. (Actually I slept on Kelly Richard’s (shaper of Perfection Surfboards) floor in Myrtle Beach the first night). Then another rep flew in and I put the sleeping pad to use for the second time. Unfortunately the AC blew 65 degrees and there was a lot of snoring involved.  

Much quieter

It’s much quieter here than at the Marriot, though I do miss the antics and fun of hanging out with the Rip Curl Office staff and the east coast surf shop contingency. They are a fun lively bunch, but it’s given some good down time for reading, thinking, contemplation about life, and the chance to dawn patrol on my alaia the past couple of mornings.   

Comida (food) on a budget!

My team manager then informed me he had a spot open because Mick had moved to the Marriot for one reason or another. So I packed up, moved down to the beach, once again had my own bed, a private break out front, breakfast with Fred Hemmings (Hawaiian State Senator) discussing gyres and Midway Atoll, and the rest of the Rip Curl team in the villas around me. AWESOME!! Frothing!!!

The surf here is pretty consistent with tons of breaks within about 15 or twenty minutes of each other. Some are hidden and some you drive by and see from the road. The northwest corner of Puerto Rico is pretty unique as it picks up swells from anywhere between NE and NW. The majority of swell we’ve seen has been NE and the trade winds are typically east so the more the west side gets swell, the more offshore and clean the conditions are. So in choosing a surf spot you weigh size and cleanliness. To make things more interesting Hurricane Tomas is currently spinning just south of us right now. So bands of thunderstorms have already been passing by periodically, the wind is howling and the swell is now coming from the SE…aka the other side of the island. To Search or not to Search…either way I’ve got a bed here and the ocean off my doorstep. If it goes flat, I’ve got my free diving gear!

Searching through the keyhole