Herman Melville once wrote, “Whenever I find myself growing grim about the mouth; whenever it is a damp, drizzly November in my soul; . . .then, I account it high time to get to sea as soon as I can. . . .There is nothing surprising in this. If they but knew it, almost all men in their degree, some time or other, cherish very nearly the same feelings towards the ocean with me.” I could not agree with this sentiment more and it makes it more perfect that the character that speaks these words is eager to leave his teaching job. I think we all know what it feels like to get bogged down in the daily grind of work. I know that this is coming on when I sit at my desk and I find myself looking for any excuse I can to look at the surf. I log on to local web page to find out what the waves are doing. Ten minutes later I go back to the page to find out what the water temperature is. Five minutes later I have my head hanging out of the window to assess the wind. I guess you can say I have the bug. I love to surf and love to share it with others.

I have left my summer job of surf instructor to return to the rigors of being a high school English teacher. Though I love my full time career it is far more stressful than the life I lead in the summer. I read about epic trips that many take to Costa Rica in the cold of January and I feel intense jealousy, though I had just been in July. I fantasize about taking a trip with friends to a Caribbean island, miles away from students and grades, and the copy machine that always seems to work for the person in front of me, but breaks by the time I get a turn.

Ahhh the warm salt sea, what a nice thought. I miss my summer days of rolling out of bed eating a hearty breakfast and hustling down to the beach for a dawn patrol session, followed up by surf lessons to a gaggle of eager girl scouts stoked about Surf Camp. It just gives me a big smile to think about those days. I count my blessings and know that summer will roll around again, and the doldrums of my mind will become the waves that I ride. I feel like I am spoiled because I know what this feeling is and when work is hard and overwhelming, then I can think about surfing and teaching others the joy of surfing.

So, as I write my stress melts away and my eyes perk up and I realize that even when the surf isn’t under my feet, it is never far away and can never leave my mind. Like I said I’m very lucky to have this escape. No self-help guru or relaxation tea can match how it feels to remember the warmth of a wave rolling over you as you turtle roll or the heat of the sun drying the salt on your skin or the smile on your face after a good ride, or a fun wipeout. I hope that all of you stuck at your desks know what I am talking about, and if you don’t, grab the phone and get a lesson, camp or trip organized.

Jen Y. – Instructor